- This topic has 117 replies, 14 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 8 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
@ethiopia thats for the upload at least.
Maybe reup the new improved version later.
Maybe start a complaint with them over misleading images?
Lighting can be fun if you just do whatever you want, mess around, you sometimes end up with something you really like.
I was doing a scene with moonlight behind and off the the left of the character. I wanted a front light just to see a hint. Dramatic effect. I used a point light AND a spot light and cranked BOTH up to 400K right next to the figure and NOTHING. I'm like seriously? LOL
Yes, the lighting figures in Daz are weird.
IRL if you have even lighting in an inspection room at 1000Lux, everything can be seen in detail very easily.
In DS that is virtually pitch black!
:0/
I _think_ what happens with the DAZ lights is it distributes all its energy around the lightsource, so instead of being a lumen level like we'd expect from a lightbulb (like setting a light using IES values to 40w and expecting it to act like a real 40w bulb) it's spraying light rays in all directions each of which takes the average of the lumen value. This means the larger your light source, the more lumens you need to add (and with emissive objects I think it raycasts from the entire object even if you have an emission map in the slot)
Most raytracers I've used in the past separate the light value from the amount of rays the light is casting so you'd say I want 1000lumens, and I want you to cast 30,000 rays for the lighting solution.... pretty sure DAZ is combining these into one huge number.
That's totally guesswork but it _looks_ to me like that's what's going on.
----
@dragon - sounds weird... i had similar before I figured out how to do it right... There can be odd texture issues, or sometimes you just need to reload DAZ. And sometimes it does what it wants 😀 I think having the light too close can cause issues as well (odd clipping planes or somesuch)@not-hunter
Ah, OK exposure settings.
What values would you recommend for a typical interior render?
🙂
I tend to use HDRI for pretty much anything outdoor. You can use an HDRI for the lighting (skydome) and use a backplate outside the window (assuming you're facing it) by placing an environment background in the scene (rather than using a plane with an image on it). That way the HDR will still come through the window but won't blow out the backplate.... of course this method fails if you don't have a 4 walled set as the HDR will come in through any open area (though that could also be solved using an HDR editor and masking out the areas that would be coming through the missing wall(s))
Lighting has always been the hardest thing in DAZ. I am not a master of it in any way but I do have some photo and drawing theory I can pass along.
One of the objectives of 3 point lighting is to get 3 different tones on your model to shape the surface, move the eye around the model or highlight a certain area. It is a basic drawing technique. Essentially photographers draw with light.
I think HDRIs are great but they ruin good 3 point lighting. They throw light everywhere. Very uncontrollable unlike in a studio situation. So for good lighting turn off Dome lighting in the render settings unless that is what you are looking for. All around room lighting.
The render is done with 3 point lighting and no HDRI. Look at the arm and see how it is shaped by the 3 different tones. Or the head has nice 3 tone lighting. If you look at the hand next to her face you see it is flat looking. There is only 1 light hitting it so it only has 2 tones.
This 3 point lighting is 2 spots opposite of each other with 2 different strengths (distance from model can also be used as how bright/sharp a light is) and a fill light softbox next to the camera. I like JM's proper emmisive lights for rather accurate studio lighting.
You could mess around with this for hours and real photographers plan a photoshoot for days. Hope this helps. Or is at least good.
@Ethiopia I would say that is proper photographic lighting. Outside lighting will always overpower inside lighting. You need to have some lighting inside to balance out the outside brightness without killing all the shadows. Usually just a fill light. In photographic terms things are measured in ratios. So if your outside light is 4 times brighter than inside that is a 4 to 1 ratio. Your shadows can also be measure in ratios. A darker shadow is created by a higher contrast ratio. A camera cannot capture a 4 to 1 difference in lighting (outside 4 inside 1) without one being blown out or the other underexposed.
When I photographed stuff I would have to add an inside fill light just to get the balance between inside and outside within the exposure of the camera 1st. Then mess with shadows.
@Ethiopia yes. I work on tv and movie sets these days and watching those lighting guys or DP's work is really amazing.
Fake light just looks fake. Not much can compare to an overcast day, the first or last light of the day, window light.
So would and HD image be as close to a "real" digital equivalent of perfect light. Minus of course all the glam stuff like side and hair lights?
Wow, i feel like i just opened a pandora box by asking you guys (and girls!) tips and your opinions about lighting in Daz Studio. Seems to be quite a huge subject. A few of you already lost me with "Lumens", "emissive" and "exposure value". Ha ha ha.
But all your tips are really interesting and helping. Thank a lot.
@Dragon: Thank you. I'll do that and try those Lighting ressource and play with them like you suggested. I'm mainly looking for bright outdoor settings and/or really well-lighted interior. (Think like a classroom with many huge Fluorescent Lights everywhere on the celling.)
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
